Misery loves company
There is a special entrance to the cruise ships for those passengers who have decided to traverse the city by bike.
The foot passengers trickle in and out through an unassuming side entrance that is altogether underwhelming when considering the grandiosity of the ship.
The cyclists trundle past this entrance ringing their bells.
It has been my experience that cruise ship cyclists are always and persistently ringing their bells.
Some of the more confident male cyclists half dismount whilst gliding past, leaving one foot on a pedal whilst deftly swinging the other leg over the bike with the toe-pointed grace of a ballerina – a sort of riding side saddle – before casually sticking a dismount and seamlessly transitioning to walking speed, wheeling the bike by hand to its destination.
The men look around as they do this, proud of the smooth movement in which they risk it all in order to orchestrate the most efficient use of their ride time, reducing the wasted seconds that would be required to stop moving entirely in order to dismount safely.
I am sure that these masters of the cruise ship hire bicycles are imagining the less confident riders jealously watching them as they expertly demonstrate their skill, longing to share their mastery over the art of the smooth dismount.
It is a shame that this mastery is not transferred to the cyclists as they navigate their way throughout the traffic systems of the cities in which they are riding. They seem to disregard any signage or rules of the road, as if their status as cruise ship bicycle riders allows for some form of diplomatic immunity from common sense practices such as not repeatedly driving your fucking bike into the back of my legs.
The passengers are commonly seen cycling around in a jostling pack; the expert male riders located at the front, rear and sides of the mass in order to protect the weaker ones. Around the experts’ necks and waists hang utility belts of maps and whistles, passports and cameras, cagoules and first aid kits, lanyards and tourist passes for the whole family.
All of the dismount confidence evaporates when a red stop sign threatens to split the group in half. Petrified of isolation, the expert riders are willing to skip red lights, cycle over parents and pushchairs, and deny the existence of oncoming traffic so as not to be disconnected from the herd. Approaching an amber light, the men will shout and bellow in fear, raising their buttocks up from the padded bicycle seats as they shift their bodies into racer mode, changing gears loudly to find the right speed in order to best protect themselves and the rest of their kin.
These moments of frantic insecurity are later forgotten when it comes to the dismount. If you are lucky, you will see a series of confident men dismounting one after the other in regular rhythmicity, their pointed ballerina toes acting out a kind of mounted form of synchronised swimming – a dance of the flamingos giving their final salute to the shore.